Walking the dilapidated streets of Havana, the Cuban artist Carlos Garaicoa
imagined an alternative universe. He pondered the Art Deco facades behind which
dogs prowled debris-strewn lots and the disintegrating columns that supported
nothing but sky. In 1993 he began transforming those ruins into artworks that
seem as evocative as the city itself.
He would pretend to prop up a building's walls with wooden beams and then photograph
the results. On another photograph of a crumbling site he would superimpose
absurd drawings or the outlines of utopian architectural structures. In 1996
he took his obsessions with cityscapes on the road, in an exhibition at the
Art in General gallery in Manhattan that explored the relationship between
Havana and New York. Several of the works featured an object photographed on
the streets of both cities. Another juxtaposed a photograph of a young Cuban
in Havana who literally wore his urban dream on his arm in the form of a tattoo
of the World Trade Center towers with a photograph of the actual towers.
A growing number of artists around the world have begun looking at their
city's streets as metaphors for politics, culture and history. Mr. Garaicoa's
tragicomic view of Havana travels particularly well. At 37, he is a rising
star of international art fairs who has translated his urban excavations
into riffs not just on Havana but on cities as disparate as Moscow and Los
Angeles.
Through July 17 his interpretations of Los Angeles and Havana are on view
at the Pacific Design Center of the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art.
This survey of his recent work, ''Carlos Garaicoa: Capablanca's real passion,''
includes pop-up books, videos, architectural models and rice paper lanterns
whose glowing shapes evoke a nocturnal metropolis idealized from afar.
''Everybody who lives in a city knows what I am talking about,'' Mr. Garaicoa
said in a recent telephone interview from Havana, explaining his fascination
with urban centers. ''In the complexity of a big city, a lot of people are
fighting for something, looking for something. So the city is a very rich
subject to make work about love, hate, history, beauty, what people expect
from life and how politics get involved.''
Mr. Garaicoa (pronounced gar-eye-CO-ah) lives in Havana with his wife and
son. But he often spends weeks, even months, reconnoitering the cities where
he will show his works.
But in the case of Los Angeles, he made only one short visit, in March 2004.
There, Alma Ruiz, a Museum of Contemporary Art curator who organized the
exhibition , pointed out an abandoned storage building at the edge of the
Santa Monica Freeway that was scheduled for demolition. He photographed it
then but was never able to return for the next stage: photographing the site
after the building was torn down (a friend did that for him) or even to see
the exhibition.
Last fall his visa application was turned down, something that has happened
to other Cubans over the last year under the Bush administration's tightened
restrictions on Cuba.
To complete plans for the Los Angeles exhibition, Ms. Ruiz had to catch up
with Mr. Garaicoa in Moscow in January, where he was participating in that
city's first biennale.
There he displayed the techniques that result in his Los Angeles exhibition,
as in the before-and-after photographs of the storage building site. That
final work paired huge black-and-white photographs: on the left the shabby
Art Deco building against a cloudy sky; on the right, the vacant lot with
an outline of the former building traced in red thread.
In Moscow, however, his photographed reconstructions had a harsher edge.
It was in Russia, he said, that he found the roots of so much that he deplores
in Soviet-influenced Cuba.
''I wondered, how did Cuba get involved in all that?'' he said in an interview
in Moscow in January. ''We come from African gods; when we have problems,
we go to the beach.'' The Moscow installation is called ''To transform the
political speech in fact, finally.'' It includes black-and-white photographs
of Havana streets and buildings on which he stitched in red the outlines
of the avant-garde architecture of the 1920's Russian Constructionists. In
glass cases, he displayed sheets of Soviet stamps imprinted with current
Cuban political slogans. The thread architectural drawings represented the
exuberance of the first years of revolution; the stamps the export of a stale
ideology to Cuba. ''I'm bringing back to Russia all this official propaganda that doesn't belong
to me,'' he explained.
The Los Angeles exhibition, ''Capablanca's real passion,'' takes its title
from another of Mr. Garaicoa's works that explores Cuban-American relations.
It consists of a chessboard on which the pieces have been arranged to reproduce
a moment in the 1918 New York chess match between the American champion,
Frank Marshall, and José Raúl Capablanca, the Cuban who defeated
him.
''My idea is that America and Cuba have been playing a game of chess for
a century,'' Mr. Garaicoa said.
The chess pieces are fantastical models of old Havana buildings as well as
the boxy high rises, nuclear reactors and television towers of the modernist
enterprise that visionaries once believed would change the world. If the
buildings were removed from the board, he said in the telephone interview,
the landscape would change, just as political and economic forces change
cities. ''My art is not political,'' he said. ''But it is playing a game
with politics. It is a little judgment of history.''